Installing Mirage Classic

A) Before You Begin

1. Prepare your tools and accessories

See specific tools and accessories

2. Check subfloor moisture level

Using a wood moisture meter, ensure that the moisture reading for the subfloor does not exceed 12% and that the difference between the reading for the boards and subfloor is no more than 4%. If the moisture reading is too high, find the moisture source and correct it.

3. Check that subfloor is appropriate

The subfloor must be plywood [minimum 5/8" [16 mm] thick] or approved OSB [3/4" [19 mm]] if installed over 16" [400 mm] center-to-center joist substructure. Screw subfloor firmly onto joists to prevent floor movement and squeaks. Replace any existing floor or subfloor that has suffered water damage or shows structural weaknesses.

The surface must be flat. The maximum tolerance is 3/16" [5 mm] variation over 10 ft. [3 m]. If necessary, sand any bumps using #20 grit paper.

4. Clean the subfloor

The subfloor must be vacuumed clean and be smooth and free of any debris, staples, visible nails, old adhesives, or other dried substances.

B) Preparation

1. Sketch out the installation

Determine starting point or wall and the direction in which boards will be installed. Boards should be installed perpendicular or at 45° to joists.

2. Lay felt paper

Lay felt paper [or equivalent] over the entire floor surface.

3. Open a few boxes and lay out boards in the same position they will be installed

To create a more pleasing appearance, lay boards across the entire room as they will be installed to ensure a good mix of colors and nuances. Remove or reposition any boards you find less attractive. Select boards that go best with the transition moldings you will be installing.

4. Draw a line marking the first row

Using a chalk line, mark a guideline parallel to the starting wall, taking into account the width of the boards plus an additional 3/4" [19 mm] for the expansion gap and tongue. Select the longest and straightest boards for the first row.

C) Laying Boards

1. Place, drill, and nail the first row

Align the first board with tongue side along starting line and grooved side facing the starting wall; leave a 1/4" [6 mm] gap from the right side wall [perpendicular to starting line]. Drill and nail boards from above, as close to the wall as possible. Install subsequent boards from right to left until ready to trim row end boards.

2. Use trimmed boards to start next row

To minimize trim waste, select row end boards that are long enough for their trimmed ends to be used to start subsequent rows. Leave a 1/4" [6 mm] gap between the wall and the end of each row. The first board of the second row must be at least 6" [150 mm] shorter or longer than the one used in the first row, to avoid lining up the joints.

3. Nail first rows by hand

Since wall proximity prohibits the use of a stapler, use a hammer and nail punch to drive finishing nails approximately every 4" [100 mm] along the tongue for the first few rows.

4. Use floor stapler as soon as possible

Subsequent rows should be installed the same way, using the stapler.

5. Nail last rows by hand

The last 4 or 5 rows should be installed the same way as the first rows due to the proximity of the wall. You may have to trim the boards closest to the wall to leave the 1/2" [12 mm] required for the expansion gap.

• Mirage Product Chart
• Buyer Guide
• Installation Guide – Classic
• Residential Maintenance Guide
• Naturally Responsible Leaflet
• Warranty Certificate
• Nanolinx Premium Leaflet

Mirage Classic

Collection Stylish - Design Series

• Boards with uniform thicknesses and widths, available in 2-1/4 in. [57 mm], 2-1/2 in. [64 mm], 3-1/4 in. [83 mm], and 4-1/4 in. [108 mm]
• Boards interlock easily for simple installation
• Nailed or stapled over a wood subfloor
• Micro-V joint on all four sides of the board, prevents dust and dirt build-up
• All finishes are VOC and formaldehyde free for better air quality
• Can be sanded three to five times for an even longer lasting floor
• Each box contains assorted lengths for great looks and quick installation
• Exceptional durability

The Facts

American Cherry

950

American Walnut

1010

Canadian Breza

1200

Yellow Birch

1260

Red Oak

1290

Hard Maple

1450

Sapele

1500

African Mahogany

1500

Tigerwood

2160

Santos Mahogany, Cabreuva

2200

Brazilian [Cherry Jatoba]

2350

Values are given in pounds. The higher the number, the harder the wood.

The Look of Maple

Maple has a close grain that gives it a soft, even texture. While the grain is generally straight, it can also appear curly, wavy, or striped. Sometimes there is pronounced color variation when maple is exposed to intense light, although a UV protector applied during the manufacture of flooring limits this variation.

Maple sapwood is generally white with a slight reddish-brown tint: the heartwood is reddish brown and sometimes quite dark.

Maple: A timeless classic!

The Facts on Maple

There are 13 species of maple in North America, 10 of which grow in Canada. Hard Maple is found in the eastern United States and Canada. Maple syrup is produced from the sap. Hard Maple can reach a height of 120 ft. [37 m] and a diameter of 3 ft. [1 m]. In the forest, maples can have a clear trunk, free of branches for up to 60 ft. [18 m].

Hard Maple and Black Maple are hardwoods. Other species, such as Silver and Red Maple are considered softwoods. Some manufacturers offer maple floors without specifying that they are using soft species. These floors are much less impact-resistant.

Marks, scratches, or imperfections are more noticeable because of the close, even grain and pale color. The more open grain of oak and ash hides marks better. A matte finish will help make marks less noticeable.